Field Gates - Buyers Guide

What is a field gate?

Briefly, a field gate is a wooden gate with cross bracing. (The five-bar pattern, or the diamond brace, are traditional.) Field gates were originally developed for agricultural and horse fencing. Over time, these types of gates became more decorative in nature, and are often used as entrance gates to homes.

Field gates evolved in rural England and were needed as herding developed from a single animal to a full flock or herd. As livestock holdings grew, so too did the need for more reliable fencing and stronger gates that could keep livestock in, and other animals out. Crops had to be protected as well.

The “English field gate” still serves a practical purpose, but is equally appreciated for the traditional and timeless look it can add to a house or estate.

Selecting the Wood

Not all timbers are equally suited to gate-making. The timber selected has a direct impact on the life, strength and look of the finished gate.

Softwoods

Spruce (Whitewood):Works very well, especially from slow growth, large-diameter trees. It has a natural resin that seals the cell structure and repels water. Spruce is very long lasting (many decades) when kept above ground, though preservative does not penetrate deeply.

Pine. Many varieties, including Corsican pine, Radiata pine, Southern yellow pine, and Scots pine, are good choices. Pine cell structure allows for deep impregnation, and both sapwood and heartwood can be treated with preservative. It can be long-lasting and may well be the best cost-effective option.

Scots Pine (Pinus sylvestris)

Origin: Grown widely in Northern Europe and Scandinavia. Properties: Strong and moderately dense; sapwood very receptive to preservative treatment, leading to long life when pressure treated.

Use in gates: Traditional species for English field gates; it is known for its durability and reliable performance when exposed to outdoor conditions.

Corsican Pine (Pinus nigra var. maritima)

Origin: Native to the Mediterranean region and widely planted in Europe. Properties: Slightly denser and with a straighter grain than Scots pine; excellent penetration of preservatives.

Use in gates: Leads to more stable components and less warping; premium softwood choice.

Radiata Pine (Pinus radiata)

Origin: Native to California, now widely planted in New Zealand and South America. Properties: Fast-growing with a more open cell structure, allowing deep impregnation; lightweight but strong enough for gates. Use in gates: Cost-effective when available; good treatment response, but should be well-sealed and maintained.

Spruce / Whitewood (Picea abies)

Origin: Scandinavia and Central Europe. Properties: Naturally resinous cell structure makes it resistant against water absorption. Therefor Spruce wood can last decades as long as it don’t have earth contact. And since gates normally are installed 5-10cm above the ground Spruce is ideal for gates.

Use in gates: Performs very well above ground; long lasting if installed without earth contact.

Larch (Larix decidua / Larix kaempferi)

Origin: European larch and Japanese larch, which are often hybridized.Properties: Naturally durable for a softwood, with higher density and resin content; good resistance to rot even without treatment. Warp easier than Spruce.

Use in gates: Excellent for exposed conditions; slightly more prone to surface checking (splitting of outer fibres), but structurally very sound.

Hardwoods

Field gates can also be produced in hard wood. Gerapa is a good choice as this wood is very straight and strong. Oak is also an option; however, oak is a very “lively” species so warping can often be an issue. When you choose hard wood, it is of course a must that the wood is certified by FSC or similar authority.

Other Hardwoods

Hardwoods are often chosen for their natural durability, strength, and appearance. They typically require less preservative treatment than softwoods, though are more expensive and sometimes more difficult to work with. Here are the main hardwood species typically used for gates:

Oak (Quercus robur / Quercus petraea)

Origin: Europe, especially England and France. Properties: Strong, heavy, and very durable. Oak has been used for centuries in construction but is a “lively” wood — prone to movement, cracking, and warping as it adjusts to humidity changes.

Use in gates: Traditional choice; attractive but requires careful seasoning and joinery to avoid distortion.

Iroko (Milicia excelsa / Milicia regia)

Origin: West Africa. Properties: Often called “African teak.” Dense, durable, and resistant to rot and insect attack. Naturally oily, which provides excellent stability outdoors.

Use in gates: Popular alternative to oak, but with long service life and less movement. More stable and easier to maintain than oak.

Sapele (Entandrophragma cylindricum)

Origin: Central Africa. Properties: Moderately heavy, reddish-brown timber with good durability. Stable once seasoned, but slightly less durable than iroko.

Use in gates: Selected for appearance and durability; often used where aesthetics is a consideration.

Spruce / Whitewood (Picea abies)

Use in gates: Performs very well above ground; long lasting if installed without earth contact.

Gerapa (Apuleia leiocarpa, also known as Brazilian Oak)

Origin: South America. Properties: Very straight-grained, strong, and naturally durable.

Use in gates: Good for structural stability and heavy-duty use, but must be sourced responsibly due to sustainability concerns.

Padouk (Pterocarpus soyauxii)

Origin: Central and West Africa. Properties: Very durable, dense, and resistant to both rot and insects. It has a very striking reddish-orange color when fresh, which weathers to a silver-grey.

Use in gates: Commonly used in the Benelux region for durability and looks.

Tropical Hardwoods (general note)

Many tropical hardwoods (teak, azobé, balau, etc) are very durable, but sourcing is a sustainability concern. Always ensure certification (FSC, PEFC) and legal sourcing.

Important: Warped boards or planks should never be used for gate frames. They will make the gate twist and warp over time, leading to failure.

Design and construction

Joints: All structural joints should be mortice and tenon, glued and wedged where possible. A properly glued joint is stronger, less likely to let in water, and has a much longer life.

Bracing: Cross-rails and heavy top rails are important to prevent sagging and keep the gate square.

Fixings: All screws and bolts should be stainless steel to avoid corrosion. All bolt ends should be finished flat and capped with protection to prevent injury to animals or handlers.

Finish: The timber should be smooth and free of splinters or sharp edges. Splinters are unnecessary risks to both livestock and people.

Hardware and Fittings

Choice of hinges, gudgeons, and locks depends on gate purpose.

Hinges: Always use double-strap (sandwich type) hinges for strength and stability.

Hanging posts: Dimensioned to support gate weight and set deep in concrete to avoid leaning.

Locks and catches: Hardware should be appropriate to use — enclosures for livestock will need stronger, more secure latches than a decorative entrance gate.

Proper installation is as important as good gate construction. A badly hung gate will sag and fail, even if made from the best timber and fittings. See our installation manual for further details.

Finish and Treatment

Factory treatments (pressure impregnation, oil, or paint systems) provide long-term protection against rot and insects. If further cutting or drilling is done on site, all exposed surfaces must be re-treated with preservative immediately.

Keep your field gates in good shape.

To maintain your impregnated softwood field gate, regularly clean it with a soft brush or hose to remove dirt and debris, and apply a UV-blocking wood oil or preservative at least once a year, or when water no longer beads on the surface. Treat all surfaces, including end grain and the bottom of the gate, applying thin, even coats in the direction of the grain. Also, inspect and lubricate the hinges, latches, and other hardware to ensure they function smoothly and safely.

Applying Treatment

Choose a suitable treatment: Select a wood oil or a wood preservative with UV protection and water-repellent properties. Spirit-based treatments are often recommended for better protection than water-based options.

Apply to all surfaces: Treat all areas of the gate, including any freshly cut or drilled sections and especially the bottom of the gate, where moisture can easily be absorbed.

Use the right tools: Apply the oil with a natural flat brush or a lint-free cloth, working in the direction of the wood grain.

Apply thin, even coats: Apply the first coat thinly and evenly. Allow it to dry according to the product's instructions before applying a second thin coat.

Wait for it to dry: The gate should remain dry for at least 48 hours after treatment.

Hardware Maintenance

Inspect and tighten: Regularly check hinges, latches, and other hardware, tightening any loose screws or bolts. Lubricate: Apply lubricating oil to hinges and locks to ensure smooth operation.

Replace if necessary: Replace any rusty or damaged fixtures to maintain functionality and prevent further damage to the wood.

Do’s and Don’ts

Do:

Select the correct timber for your needs (treated pine or FSC-certified hardwood).

Ensure all joints are mortice and tenon, glued and wedged where possible.

Use stainless steel bolts and hot dipped hardware, use protected bolt ends.

Follow installation instructions carefully or hire experienced installers.

Inspect the gate annually and undertake simple maintenance tasks.

Don’t:

Allow gates to be in ground contact — this accelerates decay.

Use plain boards or planks for framing.

Ignore splinters, rough edges, or protruding fastenings — they can cause injury.

Expect warranties to cover all wear and tear.

Underestimate the importance of correct hinges, posts, and fittings.

Conclusion

A well-designed, properly installed wooden field gate can last for decades, combining traditional rural charm with modern durability. By choosing the right timber, demanding proper joinery and fittings, and maintaining the gate regularly, clients can enjoy a functional and beautiful product for years to come.

The right gate is not just a barrier — it is an investment in safety, aesthetics, and tradition.